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2008年1月11日 星期五

[轉貼]讓葡萄酒做自己—RIEDEL的製杯術

讓葡萄酒做自己—RIEDEL的製杯術

資料來源: 威廉彼特
(威廉彼特是 RIEDEL 現在台灣的總代理,之前是由和信集團旗下的中租貿易負責)

◆ 酒杯也要型隨功能

儘管飲酒是感性的事情,然而酒杯製作這件事情,卻是再理性不過—尤其對歷史長達250年之久的奧地利酒杯製造商RIEDEL而言,酒入喉舌所帶來的感官愉悅,正要靠製作嚴謹的酒杯來創造。


成立於1756年的奧地利品牌RIEDEL,一直以製杯的工藝技術著稱,在第九代傳人Claus J. Riedel接掌時,製杯理念開始有了很大的轉變與突破。或許是受到同樣源自歐陸的包浩斯學派影響,堅信form follows function形隨功能,Claus J. Riedel成為第一位提出形體決定酒香與口感的設計師。為因應種類繁、氣味複深厚的葡萄酒,他著手研究每一款釀造葡萄酒的色香味,開發出專屬杯型。更以水晶為材質,強調薄壁、不加裝飾雕刻的技術製作,奠定了製杯的專業地位。


但,為什麼是水晶?根據該品牌的解釋,水晶之所以較玻璃更適合製作酒杯,在於材質表面因為含鉛而有了不平整的凹凸,飲酒前搖晃杯身時,酒液容易附著於上而能夠充分的與空氣接觸,散發香氣。此外,超薄的杯緣能創造更佳的口感,製作時需仰賴超高的工藝技術,現在雖然部分系列交由機器吹製,但每台要價兩千萬歐元的器具,絕非普通酒杯製造商可以負擔,也因此不用擔心抄襲複製。



◆沒有RIEDEL就不喝葡萄酒?

為了伺候每一款各有脾氣個性的釀造葡萄酒,RIEDEL專屬酒杯有不同特色,RHEINGAU適合窄身但杯口略為開展的酒杯、MONTRACHET需要寬胖的空間、TEMPRANILLO如同水滴狀的杯身最能引發味道、而香檳就需要狹長的杯款讓氣泡有充足的空間浮現。以氣味刁鑽不容易散發的NEBBIOLO為例,RIEDEL甚至大膽宣稱:沒有這款杯子就絕對不喝NEBBIOLO。


RIEDEL亞太地區副總裁Mark Baulderstone提出一個有趣的比喻「酒也需要翻譯(translation),好的酒杯能將酒的成分與迷人之處完整轉譯給品酒的;不好的酒杯,會偷走酒的香味,剩下單調呆板的氣味」。他指出,過去大家以為酒和味覺最緊密相關,葡萄酒是靠著口舌來品味;當代的西方飲酒者,則認為嗅覺更是喝酒最大的享受,百分之七十到八十的愉悅是來自於酒之氣味。不對的弧度、高度、寬度、厚度,首先影響到氣味揮發,也讓你昂貴的酒錢花得冤枉。


正確的喝酒步驟,就從挑選一款專屬杯開始,首先將酒注入,直到高度與杯身最寬處等齊,再藉由搖晃杯身徹底醒酒。接下來的關鍵步驟,Baulderstone建議大家將杯身略傾斜、讓鼻子「整個埋入」杯內,細聞葡萄酒多種層次的豐富味道。再輕輕啜飲一口,舌尖輕舔,感受酒在口腔前、中、後段的氣味表現,然後才徐徐將剩餘的喝完。


儘管REIDEL葡萄酒杯製作原則堪稱最符合工業設計的產品,Baulderstone強調,酒杯並不像是一般的民生消費品,企業不能追隨市場喜好、被消費者盲目的帶著走,REIDEL至今都沒有產品研發中心、也不做市場調查,因為釀酒師對酒的專業判斷就是唯一指導原則,酒杯的設計與製作皆以品酒的需求為出發點,目的就是要「讓葡萄酒做自己」!

*威廉彼特是開元食品旗下的子公司

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