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2012年8月31日 星期五

[轉載]林丹自傳連載之五: 粉干是小吃極品 懷念家鄉的味

中國《東方體育日報》8月30日連載:

上杭的童年時光: 電影院對面的粉干店

  小時候,我其實不喜歡在家吃早飯,而是特別喜歡去吃一種米粉。那是我們上杭特別有名的米粉,叫做粉干(編註: 粉干就是米粉, 只是福建福州區域的說法, 四川也有米線的說法)。到現在我都覺得,在所有的小吃裏,那真的是人間極品。


僅供參考, 非書中照片

  一碗粉干很簡單,配料就是豬肉、豬油加蔥花。

  以前我每次回上杭都會去吃。這兩年放假的時候,不巧都是春節,粉店老闆回家過年去了,沒開門。這讓我覺得很可惜,非常可惜。

  我記得那時候粉干店就在上杭的人民電影院對面,是一個很小的門面。小時候賣得很便宜,也就一塊、一塊五一碗,現在漲價漲到五塊了。

  因為我愛吃,所以我媽就學著做粉干(當然,媽媽自己也很喜歡吃)。到現在,每次來北京,她都會從老家帶米粉。自己做的當然也好吃,但我總覺得哪里不一樣,總覺得還是人民電影院對面的那家更好吃。我媽是在家現煮,而店裏的豬肉是長時間在爐子上用小火慢燉,肉骨頭、湯頭的味道就會不一樣。那是我最懷念的家鄉的味道。我想它現在應該還在那兒吧。朋友們將來有機會去上杭的話,一定要去嘗一嘗。

  這麼多年了,店裏的碗還是那只碗,湯還是那個湯。我不知道其他從家鄉出來的人有沒有這種感覺——無論你走多遠、走多久,有些東西都還在那裏等著你,保留著最初的味道。

  我在上杭只待到9歲。等我後來去了體校,再回老家的時候,慢慢就看到熟悉的街道變得不一樣。這邊多了一家超市,那邊多了一家服裝店。哦,那邊的小店還是原來那家小店,地址還是那個地址……

  我記憶中的家鄉還有上杭的白斬雞、客家的魚板。這些年回家的次數越來越少,小時候的記憶卻反倒越發清晰。我想,每一個離家的遊子,都會有類似的感觸吧。

第二章 漫漫回家路

  按照我爸的說法,從小到大,我到哪兒都是最小、最矮的。在福建省少體校的時候,一個宿舍8個人我是最矮小的。結果我沖了出來,打球打到了數一數二。到了八 一隊,6個室友中我又是最矮小的,現在到了國家隊還是最矮小的一個。我有時對別人開玩笑說:“在國家隊,我就跟棵小草似的,哪個不比我壯?”

  據我爸媽說,小時候我不但矮小,開口說話還特別晚,上托兒所了還不會說話。別人家孩子都會叫爸爸、媽媽了,我還懵懵懂懂的。但是父母也沒有太擔心,因為我9個月的時候居然已經能自己扶牆走路了。上學後更加一發不可收拾,在小學二年級的校運動會上,我就把四年級的100米短跑紀錄給打破了。不過,我在上杭的求學生涯,就只到小學三年級暑假。

  少小離家老大回,現在回上杭,童年時的那些玩伴、遊戲和記憶一點點地在褪色。但讓我慶倖的是,當現實生活讓兒時的夥伴慢慢走散時,在我身邊還有相識超過20年的朋友。到現在為止,他們中和我還有聯繫的,謝鑫是其中一個。

  我們從上杭到福建省體校,後來他去了福建省隊,我到了八一隊,再到後來我倆都進入國家隊——在這漫長的歲月中,謝鑫是我唯一經常聯繫、甚至到現在有時還經常在一起的兒時夥伴。

  我的很多球迷都知道謝鑫,這個我認識快25年的發小(編註: 發小是北京方言, 是指從小一起長大的朋友)。小時候,他還是我的“剋星”,比賽時我經常輸給他。其實他還有個小名叫“小胖”,很多人問是怎麼來的,我說:“就是因為小的時候挺胖的。誰知現在這麼瘦,還很帥!”

  小胖的手腕很有勁,我老輸給小胖,我媽也著急。那時我媽工作的藥店裏一邊賣的是中藥,一邊是西藥,兩邊的櫃檯中間有一塊空地。放學後,我媽就幫我練習搓球。有時候生意忙,我就自己在那兒練跳繩。肚子餓的時候,我媽也會獎勵我一個麵包。後來聽我媽說,小時候我很會賣乖,會跟她說:“媽,我今天不喝可樂了,星期六我跑步的時候,你再給我買好了。”

  訓練總是很辛苦的,但能看見成績就讓人有動力。有一天,我媽拿著通知單說:“你被體校錄取了。”當時我在業餘體校已經待了4年。

  那時候,省裏的教練會下來選拔。像上杭這樣的小縣城,很少有人會被體校的教練看上。教練來的時候我也知道,但具體選了誰不清楚。

  拿到錄取通知後,媽媽問我想不想去,我說當然想去。我記得那是夏天吧,當時全縣只有一個名額,我心裏很高興。

  第一次去福州,很興奮,只拎了一個小包,帶了幾件換洗的衣服,就這麼出發了。我媽帶著我,先從老家坐汽車到龍岩,再從龍岩乘火車到福州。火車乘了整整一夜,真是“跋山涉水”。

 新聞網址: http://sports.sina.com.cn/o/2012-08-31/09426208337.shtml

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